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3 Benefits of Marker/Clicker Style Training

Clicker or marker training in recent years has become one of the well known methods by which we teach dog’s new skills.

It is so popular in fact, that marker training has been incorporated into zoo’s for cooperative care practices, with cat training and with birds who have been injured and are being rehabilitated back into the wild.

There are many benefits to clicker training and getting your dog or cat started on learning with one is simple – once you practice!

First off, what is a clicker or a marker?

A clicker is a boxed shaped object, typically made of plastic and metal that when pressed emits a distinct, sharp sound.

Clickers can come in different styles!

The clicker itself is uninspiring and not all that amazing, but what can be accomplished once the dog has been taught to associate it with a reward (click – then reward) is amazing. This is plain old classical conditioning (remember Pavlov back in the day?) and without the reward, the sound the clicker emits remains meaningless.

In dog training, we use clickers to mark appropriate or correct behaviour in the learning stages of a skill.

Example? A dog is learning to lay down, but is not in the correct position. A trainer would mark the motion of the dog dropping their entire body on to the floor, and immediatley reward that movement. By repeating this, the trainer increases the chances of the dog performing the skill not only correctly, but accurately and without any extra physical prompting. The dog learns through repetition what is being rewarded.

A popular altnerative to clickers is a verbal marker – a verbal affirmation that the dog learns to associate with correct behaviour through classical conditioning. The word most commonly used in this example is the marker Yes – it means the same thing to the dog over time: they have done something correct and earned a reward.

3 Benefits of Marker Training

As a trainer, I love marker training because it simplifies the process for humans and takes out a few problematic aspects of training altogether – mainly how humans and dog’s communicate.

For example, if you are not training with a marker and are still rewarding your dog, there tends to be a point where the dog becomes confused. Are you rewarding him for sitting, or looking at you? Are you rewarding him for returning to you when you said his name? Or when he returned to you and sat? Dogs offer us many behaviours all in one motion and if you are rewarding inconsistent skills you will end up with inconsistent behaviours.

Because of this confusion in learning, clickers and verbal markers are massively beneficial because they…

  • Allow you to silently train and still communicate effectively with your dog. There is no need to nag, add verbal input or cues they may not fully know.
  • Allow you to have accurate timing. Timing is one of the most critical aspects of training, and a clicker/marker makes it easy for us to focus on and visualize what exactly we are rewarding
  • It creates accuracy in behaviours and eliminates ‘sloppyness’ – suddenly, the scenario mentioned above becomes clear to the dog

You call your dog…
He comes…
You Click/Mark…
You Reward him. Thus, He has been rewarded for coming when you called and not for the many steps in the middle of that skill that can happen.

Now, just with any skill (and dog training is a human skill) practice makes you better! If you are unsure about how to start working with a clicker and your dog, check out our video below.

How to get your dog associating markers with reward!

Once again, timing is key! Practice getting your hands in order and rewarding your dog consistently. The pattern is Click then– Reward (not at the same time!)

If you don’t love the idea of using a clicker or find it burdensome – no biggie! you still must mark appropriate behaviour to keep training simple and ‘clean’ – therefore, use the verbal marker YES or YEP instead.

Training is efficient when our timing improves – this is the beauty of the clicker or verbal marker! Give it a shot and let us know how you like it!

Happy training

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We are back! Post Move Training Thoughts…

It has been a while since my last post and I am happy to be back!

For those that don’t know – we moved! It has been both an exciting and a challenging month and as you can likely guess, a lot of training has been happening!

Ebony learning in a loud environment – the car shop!

While the move is a blur in my memory, one aspect of the move stuck with me as I watched my guys explore settle into their new home.

The environment in which we live (or train) affects our dogs behaviour more than we may realize. Whether we are downsizing in life or getting more space, changing environments in our dogs lives will always affect their behaviour.

A good example?

When we lived in London, we lived in a condo, in one of the busiest streets in the city. It was actually right by a fire station. Noise was constantly heard – even at 2am, the sounds of cars and buses were easy to distinguish. Naturally, it became a source of comfort and the background noise to our lives.

Checking out their new space!

Our animals – Henry, a cat and Ebony our dog, became desensitized to these sounds too. Not much spooked them – a door slamming, a fire truck, keys outside or barking dogs – none of it phased them. They didn’t bark or startle easily and the fact that they were raised in that type of environment is likely one of the reasons they carry such confidence in their demeanor.

Fast forward a few months, and we have relocated to a smaller, quieter town. It’s a lovely town but the quiet is bizarre. It took a week for me to sleep well through the night, and roughly the same amount of time to notice subtle little changes in our pets behaviour. They became more alert, more sensitive and a little more interested and distracted by sights they hadn’t seen before (like cows and farming equipment!)

As a trainer, I am constantly vigilant and hyper aware of changes in dog behaviour, but this observation really gave me an experience I hadn’t appreciated before. When dogs are raised in the city, they tend to adjust to city life and all of its nuances – they tend to tolerate different sounds and smells. When they live in quieter zones, they tend to not be exposed to the same experiences, therefore each new sound or distraction in city life (such as seeing dogs on leash!) can become a challenge – because it’s new!

So what did I do to help our pets adjust?

To be honest, Ebony is a well rounded dog and not much phases her but the experience had me considering instead how I would raise my second dog in a quieter area where she is likely not to be exposed to the same life experiences her ‘siblings’ were. As a result, raising our second dog is going to be a an entirely different undertaking than our first.

As a general rule, we don’t allow our dogs to bark incessantly at distractions or enjoy seeing them startle easily and prefer calm, well adjusted members of the household to frightened, unsure ones. Therefore, building a dog’s confidence through thoughtful exposure is always a priority in my life. I’ve had my work cut out for me during our move, which made me consider that perhaps many people find themselves in a similiar situation!

So here is what a well thought out training plan resembles to me in order to boost your dog’s confidence in new environments:

  • First, acknowledge that our dogs may struggle with some areas of socialization and make a plan to gently expose them to it! When we lived in a busy area, our goals were to expose our dog to various scenarios and keep them calm and relaxed. We wanted them to interact safely in a busy environment. In a quieter area, our goals have shifted towards ensuring our dogs actually get exposure to city scenarios they are accustomed to or to new sights (such as cows!) – which may mean going out of our way to socialize them apropriately.
  • Bring them to new locations and events, and reward appropriate behaviours – or simply reward just taking it in!
  • Avoid overwhelming scenarios and sounds too early in training such as festivals or busy parks. While most dogs may seem ‘calm’ they can be easily overwhelmed with all of that stimulation and it can cause more training for you long term!
  • Build your dogs confidence in the areas they are weak but recognize this should be a long term goal. Understand that it takes work, time, and a plan (and at times guidance from a reputable trainer). It is not an overnight fix and improvement is always the goal rather than perfection.
Still a city girl at heart 😉

Dogs can adjust remarkably well and our pets are starting to settle into a new routine (where they occasionally see a cow, or a stray cat, big trucks or a group of dogs – sometimes all at once and it’s no big deal!) but there is always room for improvement and new scenario’s to practice in.

Uprooting environments, whether it is to a larger space or a smaller one still requires consistent management and training in order for us to get that well rounded dog we all want. The move made me appreciate that hard fact more than anything.

The training never stops here and I look forward to every moment of it!

Happy Training !

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Mat Training Games: Tiny Tim

If you followed our post last week and gave it a try, then you know we are spending the next two weeks chatting about mat training games!

As trainers we will be the first to tell you it is a boring skill – both for your dog to learn and due to the high level of reps you need to teach it, for you too…but it doesn’t have to be if you get creative with the skills you use!

Last week’s game (the long down) focused upon building the dog’s ability to lay on the mat (duration) for longer and longer periods. If you haven’t checked it out, please do so here. The game this week focuses upon clarity and placement. In other words, does your dog know what to do when they see their mat? Do you need to cue your dog more than once to get them to perform the skill? Does your dog have a clear understanding of laying down on it, rather than sitting on it without being told? Can your dog do this without an immediate reward present?

These are all parts of the learning process known as proofing – getting the behaviour better, more refined and as close to perfect as possible (and eventually in any environment).

This game is meant to be a fun way to improve your dogs skill – it is geared towards an intermediate level of mat training so if you are new to mat training check back for our tutorial on the start up steps or contact us for some training info.

We want to make sure the dog is working at the level they can be the most successful at, so you can make this game easier by trying it in a familiar environment or by using your hand signals/verbal cues. Avoid luring the positions for the dog altogether.

THE DRILL

  • Have your dogs mat (ideally something like a towel) and treats ready to go, but not in your hands. Ideally, keep your rewards on a shelf or book case close by.
  • Set your mat down, cue your dog to go on their mat > Mark and reward when they complete their down and relax
  • Release your dog from the mat, pick it up and fold it in half.
  • Now that it is smaller, place it down in the same spot and cue your dog to lay on their mat. Mark and reward when they hit the desired position, release them.
  • Pick up the mat, fold it in half. Put it down. Repeat the steps above

Repeat the steps until you have a TINY mat your dog barely fits on (or doesn’t fit on at all) but they continue to perform the same set of skills (lay down and relax!)

TIPS

  • No lures. This drill is meant to test your dog, if you are still luring this skill, build your foundations first before trying it.
  • If you want more of a challenge, put the mat down in different spots in your ‘training zone’ (but keep it in the same room). See if your dog can follow the drill then!
  • Rewards should not be directly on you – rather your dog should remain laying down in position while you bring rewards to them. You must always reinforce the position you desire – therefore avoid feeding at any time other than when the dog is laying down.

Need a video? We got you covered!

Mat Training Game – Tiny Tim

Give it a shot and let us know what you think!

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So, you want a well trained dog?

When you hire us for training services, we always start with a discussion as to what your behavioural goals are for your dog. This can be specific or general but in most cases the common answers we receive revolve around the following sentence:

We want a calm, good, family dog. A dog we can take places and trust with the kids. We want a well trained dog.

These are not unrealistic goals. They are absolutely attainable. As trainers, goals make us excited and help create a clear guideline for us to help you. Goals for your dog are a fabulous way to narrow down specific behaviours you want to achieve. What normally occurs after our goal setting discussion is an in depth chat about ways to reach that goal – through management and practice sessions.

So, you want a well trained dog?

Here is the truth that no one likes to talk about (but we will because that is why we created this blog!). Training requires work on behalf of the owner and family. Since we are influencing behaviour changes, there are no overnight fixes and no short cuts. Training a dog requires consistent, well-thought out practice. This specific type of practice is known as Deliberate Practice.

What is Deliberate Practice? Simply put it is the intentional and systematic method of improving upon a goal. While regular practice might include mindless repetitions or sessions, deliberate practice requires focused attention and a plan to improve performance over a period of time.

This applies directly to dog training. The more you practice training your dog in a specific skill the better you and your dog will be at that skill. The more ‘SITS’ you work on in your home and outside of it the more your dog will offer it readily and quickly. The more you practice teaching your dog to be calm in distracting environments, the better they will be. Think of it like any other hobby: learning to play the piano, or to play soccer or study. As time passes and the more deliberate practice you carry out, you may start to notice a funny thing: The more you work with your dog, the more they want to work with you.

I like to call that the sweet spot of training. That is where I find my joy – not only with my own dog but in my clients as well…but you have to do the work to find it.

If you train your dog frequently with the intent to improve specific skills, your dog will benefit and so will your long term goals!

So, if you want a well trained dog, understand that consistency and practiceare the largest predictors of success in reaching your goals. Do you do your homework consistently? Do you follow through on the skills we teach you in class and outside of it? Do you ask for help when you hit a roadblock in your training? Do you put in the hours of practice outside of the classroom or do you simply practice once a week in class?  

As trainers, we often face high expectations and scrutiny from owners but the reality is we spend very little time with your dog. Unless they are boarding with us, the dog is rarely in our care and we do not always see them at their worst behaved. So, in order to improve upon those negative behaviors that drive you to hire us in the first place; you have to do the work.  

Our job titles don’t help promote this fact. We get it. The term ‘dog trainer’ itself is a bit misleading – the title suggests we work with dogs directly and we do to a certain extent – this is often the easiest part of the process. When it comes down to it, however, what we really do is work with humans. Dog training is about coaching you how to effectively communicate and teach your dog habits that fall in line with your lifestyle. We give you the tools and knowledge, and you need to execute them consistently in order to see improvements.

The truth is although enrolling in classes or private lessons are positive steps towards bettering your dog, training extends beyond these experiences. Expecting your dog to be fully trained after eight weeks of classes is both unrealistic and unfair. Learning occurs outside of the classroom and your home, therefore so to should your training.

The bulk of your training sessions should be done in incrementally difficult environments – not just at home or in puppy class.

Sometimes, when dogs are not succeeding or ‘getting it’ in training sessions and we are frustrated, it can be easy to blame the dog for bad behaviour. Instead, when you are disappointed in your dog’s behaviour, you should ask yourself the following questions


Did I set my dog up for success?

Is my dog ready for this stage of training?

Did I expect too much of my dog, in this specific scenario?

Is everyone is my household being consistent with the training?

And most importantly…

Have I put in the effort working with my dog on this particular behaviour?

Changing your mentality to be proactive verses reactive is fundamental to changing your dog’s behaviour because ultimately we must change ours first. We must get up earlier to walk them, we must manage them appropriately and we must find time do the work.

Think of it like a partnership; as trainers we rely on you to practice the exercises we give you so that we can continuously work towards your goals.  The truth of the matter is that we want you to succeed. We fully believe that you can – dogs are intelligent and constantly learning. We want to help you shape that learning into behaviours you desire. We are here to set you on the right path, with the right tools.

So, you want a well trained dog? Time to get to work.


 

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House Training: Creating Long Term Success

As trainers, we often receive emails from owners with new puppies hoping for some tips and advice to speed the housebreaking process up. It can be frustrating, annoying and set backs tend to create panic for dog owners. “Will my dog ever pee outside or let me know she has to?” The answer is yes but….

The bad news with housebreaking is that there is no real way to ‘speed it up’. The learning process is entirely dependent on your dog, your routine, and your ability to manage your pup (which we will dive into in this post!). It goes without saying that you should face the reality that you will likely be cleaning up an accident or two! And that is OK. This is all a part of the house breaking experience, and I promise you once it is done, it will be a vague memory and you can move on to other behavioural goals for your dog.

Oh so cute but a lot of work goes into house breaking puppies!

What we can do to ensure success for your dog’s house training is to keep management and routines predictable and consistent.

The general rule with young puppies is that their age correlates with the length of time they can feasibly ‘hold’ their bladder for. For example, two months would correlate to two hours of bladder control for this age. As the dog matures in age, so to does their bladder control. As trainers, we tend to play this rule on the safe side and instead suggest you take your new puppy out every 30 minutes to an hour. Yes. You read that right.

Why?

  • It is a lot easier to ensure our dogs can hold their bladders for an hour first before trying two hours and continuously cleaning up accidents while blaming the dog. Once your puppy has gone a stretch of time with no accidents, we can build upon it.
  • We need to take into account how active young puppies are and how that affects their ability to hold their bladder. Dogs can easily learn to hold their bowels and bladder overnight for seven hours – because they are sleeping! Like you and I, inactivity causes their bodies to naturally slow down but this is not typical during the day when pups are active and consuming liquids/food consistently.

For this reason, we always recommend starting bathroom breaks in small increments and building your dogs bladder control slowly. To simplify the process, The Leash Rack has created a schedule for you to follow and build upon for success!

If you have a new adult dog and you have little history of the dog’s house breaking routine – this post is still helpful and the schedule can be applied easily. You can start with hourly ‘pee breaks’ or communicate directly with the adoption agency/foster home to see what their particular routine was like. It is important to note that a change in homes and routines can cause any dog who has mastered house breaking to regress. Stress and environmental factors can cause dogs to have setbacks so it is important to be forgiving and understanding as you navigate through the experience.

Here is a rough outline of what your new puppys day may look like, with potty breaks and activity built in.

7AM

– puppy wakes up, potty time

– play with your pup, train them, feed breakfast

8AM

– potty time, crate time/quiet time

If you work during the day, leave a pee pad out or have a friend or a hired dog walker help let your pup out. New dogs should not be left alone for the entire work day. We strongly recommend the use of a crate for times you’re away or an expen. Don’t know where to start? Check out our previous Crate Training Post here!

 10AM

– potty time , play with puppy, train puppy, supervised quiet time

12:00-1:00PM

– potty time, play time, training time

– lunch time

– potty your dog after feeding, or within the hour

2:00-4:00PM

– play time / train time, potty time

– quiet supervised time

4:00-5:00PM

– potty time, supervised play, a walk

– dinner followed by a potty break

6:00-8:00PM

– wind down time, chew time, potty time

9:00-10:00PM

– potty the dog and bed time

Once, a long time ago little Ebony had to master this skill too!

TIPS FROM THE PRO’S

  • If your dog has an accident, try to interrupt them gently and redirect them outside. If you miss it, tough luck! Clean up the mess and make note of what may have caused this accident , and resolve to manage your dog better
  • Clean your accident spots with a cleaner designed for dog urine – Natures Miracle is a popular product and sold at most pet stores. This cleaner breaks down the enzymes in urine that create the pattern of ‘marking’ in dogs, and it works on all types of surfaces.
  • Use your crate! Crate training speeds up potty training because dogs are reluctant to pee/poop where they eat and sleep. The golden rule for house breaking is if your dog cannot be directly supervised, she should be in her crate!
  • Manage the amount of freedom your dog has. If your dog has come inside from the yard without doing her business, then she should not be allowed to roam free in the home with a potentially full bladder
  • After play, exercise or exciting events (ie: meeting a new family member!) are the most overlooked times when a dog may have an accident, so after playing with your dog try to take them out as soon as possible! A helpful tip to remember this? Think of the fact that we always use the washroom after a busy activity or before bed time. The same goes for our pets.
  • Reward your dog for pottying outside. This is a big deal and you want to encourage this and celebrate it – but don’t celebrate too early as your pup could get excited and distracted before finishing up.
  • If your dog is easily distracted or hyper, try to take your dog out into your yard on a leash to encourage them to potty quickly. If you are in a condo or apartment with no yard, take your dog out on leash and heavily reward a fast potty. If your dog prefers a certain spot, take them to that spot immediately.

As your dog grows and they begin to learn their ‘bathroom’ routine, you can start to increase the amount of time they go without a potty break. For example, a dog that has had no accidents for a week and a half at a one hour interval can try holding it in for one and a half to two hours!

We get it. It is a lot of work. No one says house breaking is easy, but the more diligent you are in the beginning the better your dogs bathroom habits will be. If your dog is having many accidents, cut back the time they are ‘holding it in’ for, follow the schedule above, increase your management and make use of your crate to build it back up again!

Happy Training